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Professional Tank Installation Diary from Fish Doctor – Six Foot Cichlid Tank

binäre optionen anbieter test in Central African Cichlids Jan 19, 2014 0 6,308 Views

broker binäre optionen erfahrungen So my latest assignment was to fit out and install a six foot South and Central American Chiclid tank into a first floor bedroom. After getting the floor surveyed to make sure the weight of the aquarium and cabinet wouldn’t end up in the kitchen below (always an important matter to sort out before putting 850lbs worth of wood, glass and water onto floor joists!) We had a few consultations with our client to get a good idea of what they wanted, they had decided they wanted to go down the natural path, no plastic skulls, Homer Simpson heads or “No Fishing” signs to be seen, I was pleased to hear! But instead all natural rocks, roots and plants.
After going away and having a good old think as to how was best to setup and run this aquarium, this is what we came up with:

الخيارات الثنائية بودكاست After picking our six foot aquarium and a cabinet that matched up with the current furniture in the room, big enough to house external filters and plenty extra cupboard space, without going above the clearance needed to view the plasma on the wall above and getting the all clear from the client, it was time to get down to business….

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opcje binarne legalność We decided to use two external canister filters, one on either side of the tank that fitted neatly into the cabinet underneath; you can never have too much filtration – the two filters combined are turning over 500 litres of water per hour in a 300 litre aquarium. We decided to install two heaters also on either side of the aquarium to make sure there were no dead spots of cold water, placing them as close to the outlet water valves as possible to make ensure good heated water circulation. We opted for bigger heaters than we actually needed, in this way if one were to fail the other would be able to run the whole aquarium quite comfortably

auto ozio binarie funziona We like to try to hide as much of the pipework, filtration, heaters etc. as we can to make the tank look as good as possible.  To do this, we find that resin 3D backgrounds work fantastically. You get a couple of inches behind the background which is ideal for hiding everything behind. These backgrounds aren’t your cheap polystyrene types that lose their colour and start falling apart after a couple of months but hard wearing resins that last an age, also remember this is an aquarium for Chiclids who like to eat and destroy! We had the 3D background made into three sections so we were able to easily get it inside the aquarium, once in there the background joins together at the back and barely shows any seams at all, I can’t stress enough how good these backgrounds work, with rockwork and roots sticking out throughout the six foot length making it look very realistic and beautiful (please get in touch if you would like more info on 3D backgrounds).

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buy Tastylia without a rx overnight delivery So before installing the background we figured out and placed all the pipe work for the filters and air stones where we wanted them, it’s then just a case of pre-drilling the background and pushing the hosing and pipes through leaving everything else out of sight fitting snugly around the back of the rock and root background. We then used some water safe putty to hold the background in place (this is optional as once the substrate and water are in then the background doesn’t really move anyway).  After leaving over night to dry, the background is completely secure with all the pipework and hosing in the aquarium ready to be connected to the filters and air stones, we wouldn’t recommend you putting the heaters behind the background as this can give the thermostat on the heaters a false reading and although behind the background may be the right temperature the rest of the tank may not. What we find then happens is that the heater turns off thinking the tank is at the set temperature when really the rest of the aquarium isn’t so we installed the heaters on either side of the inside of the glass and it’s quite easy to disguise these with extra rock work or plants.

trading binario prova gratis Once we have completed this stage we find it handy to start the design of the inside by placing, moving, placing and moving again the rest of your decorations until you have everything where you want it, we then take a few quick photographs for reference and then take all the decorations back out and pack them up for transport.

http://askrenovatie.eu/?segyl=opciones-binarias-para-ganar-dinero&27e=c6 opciones binarias para ganar dinero One of the most important aspects of aquariums (which I believe is easily overlooked) is lighting. If you’re buying an off the shelf aquarium your lighting is usually fitted inside the lid of your aquarium. This usually consists of two fluorescent tubes which most find quite ample for tropical aquariums, personally, especially with Chiclids I prefer to cram as many tubes in as I can. Chiclids have beautiful colouration and to hang just a couple of red spectrum tubes over your beautiful new aquarium, I think is a shame. You need to get as many colours of the lighting spectrum as you possibly can to get your fishes colours to stand out as much as possible.

http://maxbaillie.com/wp-cron.php?doing_wp_cron=1469240416.2443211078643798828125 iqopzions For this aquarium we used a five foot lighting pendant that housed six T5 fluorescents and put varying spectrum tubes in each one, that way whether your fish have blues, greens, reds or oranges we have catered for them all. For us to do this properly we had to make a lot of changes to get the pendant to fit inside the hood and have ample air circulation around the lighting unit this meant making the hood slightly higher, boring two holes in either end for ventilation and covering the whole of the inside of the hood in a heat resistant material to stop any bowing. Pendants can be hung over aquariums without the need for a lid but our client wanted the pendent hidden as there was a 32″ plasma television above where the tank was placed on the wall. I wouldn’t recommend you do this type of work yourself, there are many different options when it comes to lighting, a lot depending on the size of your budget so the main thing I’m trying to get across in this part is the more tubes you can put over your aquarium the better for the colours of your fish, although more lighting can mean more algae growth, so it’s a fine balancing act to get the lighting you want without the dreaded algae bloom. If your using, let’s say six tubes, you may be better starting with 2 for a couple of months and slowly building up from there, this way the water gets used to the light slowly instead of being hit with an abundance of light from the start. Algae is a big subject, which I won’t go into in detail at this point.

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http://vaneeuwijkadvocaten.nl/?nl=binaire-opties-lynx binaire opties lynx As I’d said earlier, this six foot beast was going on a first floor bedroom which meant a set of stairs to contend with! (A fitters nightmare!) It took 4 grown men over an hour to carefully get the cabinet and then aquarium into place, I have to say if this aquarium had been even half a foot longer we wouldn’t have got it in, that’s why it is so important not only to measure where your aquarium is to sit but to also measure, the path it is going to take to get it into its final resting place.

steuern bei binären optionen Once in place and after a well earned cup of tea the fun could begin, there is nothing better than getting your new aquarium in place and watching it come together bit by bit, don’t forget to place some polystyrene sheeting between the top of your cabinet and bottom of your aquarium, this makes sure that the tank fills evenly and avoids any cracking of the glass.

platform binary options The next stage was to sit the external filters and connect the hosing, place the heaters in the corners and add the air stones, this doesn’t take long at all as we have thought out and planned where everything is to go beforehand.

robot de opciones binarias en español Then comes the substrate, another thing than can take a lot of choosing, there are many different types and colours of substrate from natural gravel to black sand or if you’re brave purple, orange, green and even pink, the choice is endless. We opted for natural sand, it’s all down to personal preference really but I love the way sand looks inside an aquarium and after seeing the fish playing in it, sifting through it with their mouths and puffing it out of their gills I was happy with the choice, as was our client. I would personally say sand can be a little harder to clean than gravel, you can’t just stick a gravel cleaner into sand because the fine particles just suck straight up and you end up with more sand in your bucket than you do in your tank.

تداول الخيارات الثنائية للدمى I also find that fish waste sits on top of sand rather than getting buried in between the gravel so you may end up doing more maintenance than you wanted to but on the positive side the fish waste is easily sucked up as long as you don’t put your cleaning equipment too close to the bottom. I use a long piece of hosepipe and gently skim just above the surface of the sand, this works just fine and don’t worry if you do take a bit of sand out at the same time, that’s no trouble and replacing some sand here and there occasionally has no ill effects on your fish, in fact it’s quite beneficial. However, again it’s down to personal choice and if you prefer bright green or red gravel then who am I to argue! Whichever you do choose make sure you give it a thorough wash out before adding to your aquarium, it’s quite easy to do, just find a big bucket or clean bin, place your substrate of choice inside and stick a hosepipe as far down as you can get it in the middle, turn on the hose and let the water fill up and flow over your bucket, agitate the sand/gravel every ten minutes and repeat for an hour, this will make sure any left over dirt and dust will be removed. There’s nothing worse than just adding your substrate straight from the bag, filling with water to find nothing but thick cloudy water that can end up staying there for days and even sometimes weeks, even with filtration! Again this is something we choose to do on our premises to make things easier at the customers install. Once that’s done you can then add your substrate bit by bit, make sure you get an even coverage over the whole bottom of the aquarium and have it around 2 inches deep.

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So the background, life support system, substrate and plants are all in and ready to go, all we need to do now is add our extra rocks, bog wood and other bits and bobs, because we had spent time on our interior design back at the shop it was just a case of refreshing memories with the photos we took and placing the ornaments where we wanted them, again anything your putting in your tank must be washed in clean, warm water to get rid of any dirt, dust and grime. If your planning on using natural bog wood it is advised that the pieces are left to soak in buckets for as long as is possible. Bogwood releases dirt, brown coloration and other unwanted materials once placed in water so a good soak and changing the water they are soaking in every day for a week or so will make sure no nasties get into your aquarium! When adding your extra rocks and ornaments try to place them in a way where you have a few hideouts and caves. Chiclids can be quite territorial fish and like a good old scrap occasionally so having a few places where fish can get out of the way and bunker down if needs be is a good idea. You will also find that the more places there are for your fish to hide, the less likely they are to do so, if they feel comfortable in their environment and know there’s a great hiding spot just over that rock or piece of wood then the less they feel the need to be constantly hiding in it.

Another benefit of providing hiding places and caves is for breeding fish, if you get a pair of breeding fish they will require a nice, dark, quiet place to hide out, make out and look after their young. A lot of fish breed and then forget about their fry, some even eat them, but a lot of Chiclids will look after their fry for as long as it takes for the fish to be big enough and strong enough to manage on its own. You may not want to breed fish straight off but if you put the work in before you set your aquarium up and decide you would like to have a bash at breeding then you don’t have to start moving things around later. You will probably find a pair will breed whether you want them to or not, providing the parameters are right. It’s a great sight to wake up one morning look in your aquarium and see lots of babies being looked after by mum and dad.

So everything is in place, all hosing and pipe work has been double checked to make sure it’s securely fitted, the last thing you want is a leak from something you haven’t tightened up properly or, even worse forgotten to connect! So double check all connections before adding water!! Now it’s time to fill, you’ll probably find that your aquarium is some way from your closest tap (and depending on where you live your tap water probably won’t be right for adding straight into your tank) This needs to be checked before using tap water. Ph will be different in different geographical areas, as will the hardness of your water and other parameters. I find the best way of filling a tank is to purchase one or two big water carriers that you can pick up from most good camping stores, I use 25 litre containers, fill these up wherever you can manage to do so, if not the sink then try the bath, if not the bath then try the shower, if not the shower an outside tap… you’ll figure it out somewhere.

There are many different tap safe chemicals that you can add to your tap water to make sure all parameters are safe, speak to your local stockist and decide what is best for your tap water, just follow the instructions on the bottle or bottles depending on how your water is straight out of the tap and add this to each container of water before putting in your aquarium. A pair of step ladders comes in handy at this point, we need to get the container above the aquarium in order for us to get the water to flow out of the hose in the container and into your tank, if you use a large bottle make sure you lift safely, two people are better than one for this operation! This will take some time, it took us 12 containers to get the water to the required level but you only do it once! Obviously water changes are needed weekly or fortnightly to keep the water fresh but this is a fraction of filling the whole tank up and don’t forget for any water you add to your aquarium treat with the right tap safe chemicals!

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Once full we check for any leaks around the whole of the tank then we turn on the filtration and get that water moving. Always follow manufacturers instructions when turning your life support on for the first time and once they are up and running a few checks to make sure the filters aren’t leaking is always a good idea. We suggest leaving your heaters off until they have been submerged for around an hour to stop them cracking under the strain of fresh cold water. Once the thermostat has adjusted to the temperature of the water then it is safe to turn on the heaters and set your temperature, 25 to 27 degrees for our Chiclids. There isn’t much else to do now other than to let your water settle, allow time for your filters to pump the water around the tank and your heaters to get the water to the correct temperature

This is usually the hardest time for new fish keepers, it’s like being a kid again on Christmas morning and the urge to add fish into that beautiful new empty aquarium is sometimes overwhelming for some! Before you add any fish to a tank, it is vitally important that you prepare it properly so that the fish have a suitable environment to live in, this is what we call a “cycle”. It is not just a case of filling a tank full of water and plonking your fish in it. People who are new to fish keeping often go out and buy an aquarium set up, fill it with water and then just add their fish, they then start wondering why the fish start dying within the week. Basically, the fish are being poisoned to death by their own waste. The filter is a complex and very important piece of equipment, more complex than a lot of people actually realise. Newcomers to Aquatics tend to think that the filter is just for removing debris from the tank. Yes, the filter does this, but that is only half of the story. Your filters will start to pick up waste and particles from the water as soon as you turn them on but that is not the only thing your filters are there for, in fact filtration is the most important thing in your aquarium (the heart of it!) and that is why we call it the “life support system”, it removes dangerous toxins in the water but a filtration system will only do this once you have the correct bacteria living within it. .

Growing bacteria in a new filtration system is commonly known as “cycling”. Keeping fish in a fish tank is a huge compromise compared to what their life would be in the wild. Fish don’t have to worry about ammonia or nitrite in their natural environment, they have millions and millions of litres of water at their disposal. Once you put a fish into an aquarium you have a completely different ball game altogether, you now have a situation where dangerous toxins can easily overcome a small space such as an aquarium because there is nowhere for the toxins to flow away and so they poison and kill all of your precious fish.  An aquarium that is properly cycled and maintained becomes a living environment that can sustain life for many years. This is how we go about it; we don’t do anything for the first few days, we understand that some of our new clients are new to fish keeping and we use this time for them to get used to the aquarium, how it’s setup and what they should be checking for on a regular basis, for instance it can take a day or two just to get the temperature set exactly right, lighting times can be changed to suit the client whilst not upsetting any livestock, we also tell our clients to get there arms wet, move things around there not overly keen on, check the filtration is blowing water out from one end and sucking in from the other, basically just get used to getting your hands in the water, again without disrupting any inhabitants. After a few days we come back and add existing biological media to the filtration from our own aquariums on our premises, this already contains lots of healthy bacteria on it and will jump start the filters to go into cycle.

After the cycle we took out the smaller tropical fish and over a period of months added the Chiclids the client wanted, but only a few at a time with a good few weeks between every new batch, there are a few ways of introducing new fish to an aquarium, we have our own quarantine tanks that we keep our new recruits in for over a month before putting them in our clients’ aquariums but not everybody can do this, the best advice I can give is to find a reputable dealer with good feed back and healthy looking fish. We have to remember that it is still very early days for your filters and every extra fish means more food and more waste, if you over stock your filters will hit back and you could end up with a disaster on your hands! I believe it takes well over a year to eighteen months for your filtration to be fully stable, so think on, there’s nothing worse than pushing the boundaries a little to much and waking to a fishy graveyard (hard on the heart as well as the pocket!)

This Chiclid aquarium has now been up and running for 8 months, the customer has learnt through us over the past few months how to maintain, water test and clean so we have dropped off from going every week to every two weeks to now only once a month. They are very happy with there aquarium and all who live in her! In fact so much so that they are planning on having The Fish Doctor set them a second aquarium up in the new year, so watch this space!
If you would like any information about what we do and/or what we can do for you then please don’t hesitate to get in contact with us.

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Email - thefishdoctor@live.co.uk

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